The cost calculator is intended to provide a ballpark estimate for information purposes only and is not to be considered an actual quote of your total moving cost. Data provided by Moving Pros Network LLC. The calculator is based on industry average costs.

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See also for add-ons (I'll include more over time) I've added a fully assembled door bolt to print. Either complete or just the bolt itself. I've included a reduced contact sliding bar version to help with prints that seem to be fused together, please let me know if this helps. Supports not required unless using the no support versions.

I've added two versions with improved support for the ball handle, the previous ones the ball appears to be distorted but not unusable. If anyone prints these two with improved ball support, can you let me know if this fixes the problem, my printer is out of action for the next week or so. Print at least 3 perimeters and at least 27% infill or higher. I would recommend using a raft not a brim.

Don't scale the assembled one down as the tolerances would be too close. If your printer is like mine, the parts seem slightly stuck together when printed, then you should still be able to free it up. I just put the front (the end furthest from the bolt pin) across the jaws of an open vice, so the path of the bolt is free to slide, then tap the back end of the bolt bar with a hammer, I used an M8 bolt to drive the bar into the body.

Then just work back and forth a few times, and it should free up. I've added replacement body and receiver with countersunk screw holes.

'sliding bolt receiver_csk.stl' and 'sliding bolt body_csk.stl' This is the sliding door bolt I made for my shed door. The one in the picture is made from PLA, although ABS would probably be a better choice for outdoors. I would probably recommend that the parts be made with at least 50% infill. Assembly should be quite simple. First make sure the slot in the main body will allow the sliding bolt shaft to slide freely and also check the shaft fits into the blind hole in the sliding bar.

I put a couple of drops of superglue in the hole in the bar, slotted the bar into the main body, lined the hole up with the slot and push the pin into place firmly. Be careful not to get glue on the outside of the bar!

Please note that the sliding bar is deliberately over long to allow for expansion and contraction of the wood on my shed. The inside of the main body may require a little cleanup after printing. I used a small wood chisel to clean out the top corners and a little filing around the slot. I've added a picture of one of a couple I made 65% of original size, so I can say it works perfectly scaled down too.